Truly dedicated drinkers live – and drink – in San Telmo. This small barrio has more bars, resto-bars, cafes, restaurants and liquor outlets per square meter than anywhere else in Buenos Aires, perhaps on the planet. Walk into any Chinese grocery – and there is one on every block – and study the vast array of wines and spirits that cover at least one entire wall. The Chinese are good business people, so if alcohol wasn't selling, they wouldn’t be stocking it.
Krakow
This bar bills itself as "Polish," and, to its credit stocks zubruowka. This upbeat place is a hangout for the up and coming porteñas – 'people of the port' as Federal Capital residents are so fond of calling themselves. To snag a table or a place at the bar on a Friday night, get there before everyone else gets off work. The rest of the week is more relaxed.
Happy hour is from 18:00 to 22:00 and you can get two Jamison for 30 pesos, about USD6. To use a credit card, however, you have to spend at least 50 pesos. But the good news is you can buy happy hour vouchers in advance. As an aside, use your card whenever possible as you pay less of an exchange rate than withdrawing pesos, which you can’t convert back to dollars except on the black market.
New Breoghans Bar
Named after a Celtic legend, this pub is the first brew bar in San Telmo. Three entrepreneurs – Nicolas, Ramiro and Angel – started the bar four years ago, but it has only been in the “new” location for two of them.
The cliental at this interactive pub includes a combination of local office workers, expats and tourists. Check out this fun place where you can play pool, visit with friends, perch at the high tables or slide up to the bar. The pub food – hamburgers, Irish lamb stew and chicken wings – gets good reviews. And is a good way to fortify your stomach for the evening ahead. Happy hour from 18:00 to 22:00.